I love travelling to Asia, so when I was offered the opportunity to return to Vietnam with nine fellow Travel Counsellors, courtesy of my favourite small group touring company, Intrepid Travel, it was an immediate yes!
My first visit was back in 2004 when I was backpacking on a $20-a-day budget. This trip was a step-up from those days of counting every dollar, yet not overly luxurious - perfect for getting a feel for Vietnam’s authenticity while enjoying a few well-earned comforts. I was especially curious to see how things had changed in the past 20 years.
Ninh Binh
A few of us travelled out early to spend a couple of nights in Ninh Binh, south of Hanoi, often referred to as “Halong Bay among the rice paddies”. Known for its stunning limestone karsts, serene waterways and rural charm, this area is perfect if you love the countryside, stunning scenery and outdoor activities.
Making the most of our time here and not giving jetlag a chance, we were up early to enjoy a full day exploring the area with another preferred touring partner, EXO Travel. This company offers bespoke touring throughout Asia so it was a great opportunity to experience their tours for myself.
Our first morning was spent on serene waterways amongst the towering limestone casts and caves this area is famous for - no other tourists to be seen for miles. Working up an appetite for lunch, we cycled through local villages and rice paddies, visiting ancient pagodas and temples along the way.
The final challenge was a hike to the top of Lying Dragon Mountain. 500 steps are not for the faint hearted especially in 80% humidity, but we all stuck together and made it to the top. Well worth it... just!
Hanoi
Back in Hanoi, we had a free afternoon before meeting the rest of our group.
We were keen to visit Train Street, which meant tackling the chaotic traffic. If you wait to cross the road in Vietnam, you'd never get anywhere - just step out, walk slowly and somehow the hundreds of mopeds and cars avoid you! We arrived in time for the afternoon train travelling up to the mountainous Sapa region.
Sitting inches from a train as it rumbled past, with a Hanoi beer in hand, was an unforgettable experience, and a great way to absorb the energy of the city.
Our group's Intrepid tour was based on their Premium package: 4-star hotels, private transport, feature stays and using the best rated local guides. Huy, our guide, was phenomenal - always full of energy, insight and enthusiasm (even at 7 am breakfasts!). His tip for group road-crossing? Shout “sticky rice!” and stick together.
Sustainability and giving back to local communities is at the heart of Intrepid’s ethos. Our welcome dinner at KOTO, a social enterprise providing hospitality training for at-risk youth, set the tone.
Our street food tour visited local vendors Intrepid have been supporting for many years who serve the best local eats, including banh mi (baguette with meat, pickled veg, herbs and chilli sauce) and bun cha, one of Hanoi’s most popular dishes - bún (rice vermicelli noodles) and chả (grilled pork) - served as a bowl of broth with a side of grilled pork and noodles, along with fresh herbs and vegetables.
Halong Bay
The perfect antidote to Hanoi is cruising in Halong Bay. We had the most perfect weather - glorious blue skies and water like a millpond, ideal for kayaking and swimming. We sailed with Rosy Cruise in Lan Han Bay.
This part of the bay doesn't allow day tour boats so is much quieter especially at night and early morning. A sunrise tai chi lesson energised us for the day ahead and we enjoyed a bamboo boat trip with a local fisherman.
Hoi An
Flying into Danang for our next stop - beautiful Hoi An, the UNESCO-protected jewel of Central Vietnam - a haven for foodies, photographers and shoppers. Given it’s a social media sensation too, I expected it to be much busier, but it still retains the charm I first found on my previous visit.
It’s the perfect spot to indulge in local specialties, Cau Lau (a pork noodle dish) and fried wontons. We enjoyed a visit to the local market and a cooking class at Green Mango that included Vietnam’s national dish pho, a rice noodle soup.
We only had a couple of nights here although I recommend a longer stay as there is so much to do. The ancient site of My Son is nearby, and you can explore local rice paddies and villages on a cycling tour. It’s ideal for some down time too as there’s glorious beaches just 10 minutes from the old town.
Personally, my favourite activities were shopping, eating and indulging in too many foot massages!
Ho Chi Minh City
Fully rejuvenated, it was time to hit Ho Chi Minh city or Saigon, as it’s historically known, and still called today by many. If you are interested in the Vietnam War, then Saigon is where you’ll find many sites that provide an insight into the conflict and commemorate the resilience of the Southern Vietnamese people. The War Remnants Museum and Cu Chi Tunnels are harrowing and not easy to visit but an important reminder of the country’s modern history.
The Reunification Palace has huge historical significance, as on 30 April 1975, the North Vietnamese army crashed through the gates, marking the fall of Saigon and end of the war.
The remains of the tank are still in the grounds, and you can visit the Presidential office, bunkers and war rooms – quite overwhelming to think of the decisions that were made by those in power during those dark days.
On a lighter note, I couldn’t resist the Ben Nghe Street Food Market opposite the palace, where I savoured Banh Xeo, my favourite Vietnamese dish, a crispy pancake filled with pork, prawns and beansprouts dipped into nuoc cham, a sweet and spicy sauce – delicious!
Mekong Delta
Our final adventure took us to the Mekong Delta. Although I’ve visited the Mekong in Cambodia and Laos, it was my first time in Vietnam.
The iced Vietnamese coffee was much needed today as we had another early start to Ben Tre where we hopped onto traditional boats and explored the intricate waterways of the Mekong Delta.
Rain scuppered our plans by lunchtime, so we arrived at our eco lodge early which meant the added benefit of a relaxing afternoon and another wonderful massage! Mekong Lodge was the feature stay of this trip and, for me, the highlight.
The lodge was rustic but charming, and the food was incredible - especially the deep-fried “elephant ear” fish, beautifully presented as part of an impromptu lunch.
The peaceful riverside setting and nightly frog chorus added to its charm, and a bowl of noodles for breakfast while watching life unfold on the river felt like a perfect end to our stay.
Back in Saigon for our last night, we enjoyed some final haggling at the chaotic Ben Thanh Market and coffee along Book Street, a tree-lined lane brimming with shops and cafes.
We toasted the trip with cocktails at Above Sky Bar, taking in the city’s glittering skyline.
Why Vietnam?
This whirlwind trip reminded me why this incredible country remains one of my favourite destinations. Here are my top reasons to visit:
The food
Fresh, healthy and bursting with flavour, Vietnamese cuisine is hard to beat. From pho to banh mi, every dish tells a story.
Diverse landscapes
From mountains to the ocean, you can be trekking with hill tribes, ocean kayaking, exploring some of the world’s largest caves and relaxing on beautiful beaches all in one holiday.
Ease of travel
With good roads, trains spanning the length of the country and regular domestic flights, getting around is surprisingly simple.
Warm hospitality
The people of Vietnam are incredibly welcoming, always ready to share their culture with genuine warmth.
Value for money
Vietnam is still amazing value for money – you can get a coffee and banh mi for less than £2! Luxury is on the rise too, so if you love your home comforts and 5* service, there’s a wealth of boutique and high-end hotel brands to choose from.
Here’s my little round-up reel...
After 20 years, Vietnam remains just as captivating as my first visit. If anything, it’s even more special. I’d go back in a heartbeat - and I hope this inspires you to do the same.
If Vietnam is on your travel list, I’d love to help you create the perfect itinerary. Contact me for a chat, and let’s make it happen!